This loosely tailored, floor-length surcoat is made of thick cotton canvas, a sturdy, heavy fabric that makes the medieval dress particularly suitable for spring and autumn wear. The bottom hem, armholes and neckline are trimmed with a finely woven cotton rib. The armholes are very generously sized and extend to the hips. This garment is an authentic reconstruction of an outer gown as worn by ordinary women in the 14th century.

The surcoat (or surcote), which was originally also worn by men, was quite popular with women from the 13th c. onward. As the name implies, it was designed to be worn over a cotte (or cote). While sleeveless surcoats initially had regular cut armholes, these became larger and larger over time until they eventually reached down to the hips, showing the long-sleeved cotte or kirtle underneath.